Chipotle's decision to swap the usual pork in its carnitas burrito for more expensive, naturally-raised pork resulted in a big price hike for the item in 2001, but it has more than paid off in increased sales.

"Ethically that was a very easy decision for us to make," said Jim Adams, Chipotle's marketing executive director, describing the 3-foot-by-7-foot indoor pens pigs are usually raised in. "But financially it was a difficult decision for us to make."

Chipotle raised the price of the burrito, always the most popular item on the menu, by $1 in 2001. Sales quickly quadrupled, Adams said.

"What that said to us is that people will pay for quality and they will pay to eat food that is raised in a humane way," Adams said Thursday, during a debate over the mainstreaming of organics at the 29th annual International Association of Culinary Professionals, which ran through last Saturday.

An increase in consumer interest in food production -- including how and where it's made -- is one reason the organic food industry is making inroads in the mainstream, according to Samuel Fromartz, author of "Organic, Inc."

Courtney Putnam is a prime example.

"When I saw (Chipotle) advertising the natural pork, I started going more frequently," said the 30-year-old Chicago resident. "Before, I would get the vegetarian burrito, but I wasn't that excited about it. The pork tacos are super-delicious."

The $15 billion industry saw average annual growth of 20 percent from 2000 to 2004, according to the Organic Trade Association. In large part, the increase is the result of conventional food companies, such as Kraft Foods North America Inc., adding organic products to established brands.

Howard Brandeisky, a vice president of Kraft Foods North America Inc., joined Adams, Fromartz, and Michael Ableman, founder and executive director of the Center for Urban Agriculture at Fairview Gardens, to debate the tensions between principle and profit during the kick-off event for the IACP conference. The conference drew 14,000 people from 18 countries to Chicago.

Abelman said he fears that some large companies see organics as just another opportunity for profit. At the same time organic producers could be "seduced by supermarkets and shrink wrap," driving the organic movement away from its original environmental and social principals.

"Don't get me wrong," Abelman said to the gathered audience of food producers, vendors and industry executives. "We need to honor anyone that gets off the chemical treadmill, but that is only the first and most basic step."

Organic products produced by companies like Kraft Foods make it easier for consumers, who only frequent supermarkets, to get introduced to organic foods, Brandeisky said.

"Wal-Mart (and) Target are interested in providing more naturally organic food choices and given that growing interest, I think it's only natural that companies like Kraft get involved in that space," Brandeisky said.

Kraft Foods brands include Back to Nature, a company which was acquired in 2003 and consists mainly of cookies and granola bars, and Bocca, which offers vegetarian meat substitutes. Organic macaroni and cheese and salad dressings are just two of the "mainstream line extensions" the company has introduced in the last two years.

Organic food "is a small part of overall sales, but it is growing," Brandeisky said. "It's certainly not a fad. It's an area of genuine consumer interest and I think it's going to continue to grow."

Chipotle serves naturally raised chicken in 60 percent of its 581 restaurants and naturally-raised beef in 40 percent, with plans to move exclusively to naturally-raised meat in the next two-or-three years, according to Adams. Its restaurants in Indiana already serve only naturally raised pork, beef and chicken, while Chipotle restaurants in Illinois serve only naturally raised pork and chicken.