Since opening in September of 1995, the Rock and Roll Hall of Fame and Museum in Cleveland has become the Mecca for devotees of rock music and culture.

It took a mere five hours of highway driving -- and just one full tank of gas -- for this writer-ardent fan to transport from da region to rock heaven.

Inside the hallowed halls, the words of 1970s guitar great Rick Derringer of The McCoys seem appropriate: "Hang on Sloopy!" The journey through the history of this music that changed the world is awe-inspiring and fascinating.

In fact, the "Hang On Sloopy: The Music Of Ohio" display chronicles the contributions of Buckeye State song-makers from Dean Martin to Devo.

It's just one of the numerous permanent exhibits in the multilevel building, which boasts more than 55,000 square feet of memorabilia.

Other displays celebrating sonic flavorings of the musical gumbo known as rock include:

* "Motown: The Sound Of Young America Turns 50," chock-full of costumes and relics direct from "Hitsville, USA," representing artists such as the Supremes, Marvin Gaye, the Jackson Five and Rick James;

* "R-E-S-P-E-C-T: The Sound of Soul," exploring the legacy of giants like James Brown, Al Green, Otis Redding and Chicago's Jerry Butler and Curtis Mayfield (a related exhibit is aptly titled, "The Genius of Ray Charles");

*"In the Name of Love: Two Decades of U2," which examines the contributions of one of the world's best-selling and most beloved modern rock groups;

* "Rave On: Rock And Roll's Early Years," honoring the impact and legacy of pioneering icons Buddy Holly, Eddie Cochran, Gene Vincent, Chuck Berry, The Everly Brothers, Little Richard, Fats Domino and others.

For those leaving "Rave On" hungry for more roots-rock history, there is an excellent Elvis Presley exhibit, complete with stage costumes, jewelry and the late King's snappy Cadillac.

Yeah, yeah, yeah

Naturally, the mid-1960s British Invasion has a strong presence with instruments, clothing, posters and memorabilia from groups like The Yardbirds, Dave Clark Five, Herman's Hermits and other moptops. The Beatles and Rolling Stones rate their own expansive exhibits.

Among the coolest Beatles items re the multi-track recorder from Abbey Road Studios used to create the psychedelic sounds of "Sgt. Pepper's Lonely Hearts Club Band" and John Lennon's canary-yellow "Sgt. Pepper" costume. Both are housed in the impressive "Lennon: His Life and Work" gallery.

While the big and famous are present and accounted for, so are lesser stars and the one-hit wonders, plus early architects of rock and blues (such as Chicago's Chess Records artists) and behind-the-scenes pioneers (like Sam Phillips of Sun Records, Cleveland radio legend Alan Freed and electric guitar inventor Les Paul). Without them, and tunesmiths, rock may never have rolled.

During a visit this past April, this writer had a brush of fame , spotting Disney pop-television star Emily Osment ("Hannah Montana") checking out "From Asbury Park to the Promised Land: The Life and Music of Bruce Springsteen." This temporary exhibit is housed on the top floor.

Shows in this space change every few months. The permanent exhibits are ever evolving and in a state of flux, keeping the facility as fresh, vibrant and relevant as the music it honors.

Be warned. This is no quick walk-through. It takes a full day at the very least, to wander through this place. This writer suggests budgeting two days to those really wanting to soak up some knowledge via the theaters and specialty exhibits.

Finally, no stop to the Hall of Fame is complete without a visit to the outstanding gift shop and music store. Budget an extra hour to browse the shelves and racks.

Bring the credit card, because you just can't leave without a few nifty souvenirs.

Say it loud and say it proud. "Cleveland rocks!"

Email Tom Lounges at: beatboss@aol.com