Bite by bite

It's a play about donuts, so I was already excited even before I reached my seat at Steppenwolf Theatre in Chicago last Saturday for the press opening of Tracy Letts' new play "Superior Donuts."

(Of course, it's actually about much, much more than just donuts.)

And yes, this is the same ensemble member Tracy Letts currently floating on Cloud Nine after his Steppenwolf Theatre critically-acclaimed American play "August: Osage County" won five 2008 Tony Awards last month. "August: Osage County", which previewed in Chicago, is now attracting a full-house each night in New York. And yes, that's also the same play that just won the 2008 Pulitzer Prize for Drama.

But the concentration right now is on his new hole-in-one "Donuts" drama.

Get your ticket, because this is a story that audiences care about. I enjoyed practically every minute of what I saw on stage.

Michael McKean, who audiences often associate with his TV work like playing Lenny "the Lone Wolf" Kosnowski on "Laverne & Shirley" or zany characters in the ad-lib movie favorites by Christopher Guest such as "This is Spinal Tap" and "Best of Show," steps into this lead role with depth and believable convictions that draw the audience to want to know more about his life.

McKean plays Arthur Przybszewski, who comes from a "salt of the earth" Polish-American family, whose business is running a small donut and coffeeshop on Chicago's North Side in the "transitioning" Uptown neighborhood. Franco Wicks, played by Jon Michael Hill, is a black teenager who becomes the newest (and in fact, only) employee at the deteriorating eatery.

The shop, aptly named "Superior Donuts," has new competition because of the Starbucks that just opened across the street. Working together, both these young and old dreamers struggle to find a compromise that will assure success not only for themselves, but also the donut shop.

Adding to the enjoyment of the stage interaction, and to the clever banter and comic moments that pepper the serious scenes during the just over two hours production, are a range of well-thought-out supporting characters.

There's Max Tarasov, played by Yasen Peyankov, the neighboring Russian storefront owner who runs an electronics shop next door, as well as the shop's regular customers, like Officer James Hailey, played by James Vincent Meredith and Officer Randy Osteen, played with zest by Kate Buddeke, as well as eccentric and always a little tipsy Lady Boyle, played by Jane Alderman.

Other than a fight scene that seemed a little forced and a bit hard to believe at times (but hey, fight scenes are hard to choreograph on stage), "Superior Donuts" is a well-told story of personal survival, today's state of economics and best of all, hope for a better future.

And it's nestled in a fantastic, distressed set, very authentically created by Loy Arcenas, The set really makes audience members feel as though they are invited to step right up to the counter for a fresh cup of brewed coffee and a French crueller.

This play is better than a baker's dozen.

The opinions expressed are solely those of the writer. He can be reached at ppotempa@nwitimes.com or 219.852.4327.

celebBirthdays

Actress Gloria Stuart is 98. Conductor Mitch Miller is 97. Advice columnist Abigail Van Buren is 90. Actress Eva Marie Saint is 84. Actress Gina Lollobrigida and playwright Neil Simon are 81. Baseball's George Steinbrenner is 78. Singer Bill Withers is 70. Actress Karolyn Grimes (Zuzu in "It's A Wonderful Life") is 68. TV talk show host Geraldo Rivera and wrestler Al "Blind Owl" Wilson are 65. Percussionist Ralph Johnson of Earth, Wind and Fire is 57. Percussionist Domingo Ortiz of Widespread Panic is 56. Singer John Waite is 53. Guitarist Kirk Pengilly of INXS is 50. Steel guitarist Teddy Carr (Ricochet) is 48. DJ Zonka of Big Audio Dynamite is 46. Bassist Matt Malley of Counting Crows is 45. Singer Stephen "Ste" McNally of BBMak is 30.