Dining guide

For 05/12/07

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COMPILED BY BARBARA ROLEK

Times Features Writer

brolek@nwitimes.com

219.933.3256

Tavoletti's Cucina Italia

1150 U.S. 41, Schererville

(219) 865-3663

Tavoletti's Cucina Italia is three great things rolled into one -- a café, a deli and an imported food store.

And authentic? Mama mia, yes. The red sauce (or gravy as Italians call it) is orangey-red, the hallmark of a cooked-all-day sauce and can be bought by the pint for $3.99 and quart for $5.99. The Italian sausage is not made inhouse, but it is prepared to the Tavolettis' specifications and has a wonderful fennel flavor without those bothersome stick-in-your-teeth seeds. The bread is from Labriola and many of the meats and cheeses are imported. The Gorgonzola is so creamy, you can spread it like buttuh. The sign on the exterior of the shop (located in the same plaza as Sears Automotive on U.S. 41) still says "Cucina Italia" from the days when Fred and Patricia Biancardi owned it. The Tavoletti family assumed ownership in September 2006 when the couple moved to Italy. You can expect the same great quality and more. Always on the menu are the spaghetti and baked ziti. Daily specials ($6.29) include Wednesday's Eggplant Parmigiana -- floured, egg washed, sautéed in olive oil then smothered

in Parmesan, mozzarella and sauce -- and Lasagna on Thursdays. Salads and Zuppa di Giorno (soup of the day) elbow for room with hot or cold panini ($5.79) on the menu board. Top-selling Vegetariano (artichoke spread, grilled portobellos, roasted peppers, lettuce, tomatoes and a thick slab of fresh mozzarella) comes with a side of baked ziti or spaghetti, as do all the sandwiches. Tiramisu, stuffed shells, ravioli, gnocchi and cannoli are yours for the asking and most of it is made inhouse. Dine-in, carryout and catering are among the amenities. Don't forget an espresso, cappuccino or caffe latte. How can you miss at a place with sandwiches named "The Frank Sinatra," "The Tony Bennett," "The Dean Martin" and the "Tony Soprano" (Italian sausage and roast beef on garlic toasted bread with roasted peppers)? Look for Sunday hours coming soon and an olive oil bar with concentrates of lemon, basil, garlic and truffle so you can customize your blend. Hours are 9 a.m. to 8 p.m. Mondays through

Saturdays.

Cuisine: Northern Italian

Reservations: No

Smoking: No

Kids menu: No

Price: $

Bar: No

Tip: Daily specials are $6.29 and sauce can be purchased by the pint or quart.

(Barbara Rolek)

Teibel's

U.S. 30 and U.S. 41, Schererville

(219) 865-2000

www.teibels.com

After 75 years, this restaurant is a local institution, famous for serving fried chicken dinners with all the fixings family-style, lovely fresh seafood and many other entrées, such as New York strip steak with Roquefort, beef Burgundy, and tender center-cut pork chops with homemade applesauce. A bit like having lunch or dinner at your favorite aunt's. All entrées include tomato juice, relish tray, bread, tossed salad, fresh vegetables and ice cream. There also is a first-class group of luscious desserts to choose from if the ice cream isn't enough. Wine list is adequate and there is a children's menu for kids ages 8 and younger. Luncheon menu includes some good salads and 10 different sandwiches as well as the famous chicken and seafood. Down-home, top-quality food, comfortable seating and warm, friendly service. An asset and value in the region. Open 11 a.m. to 10 p.m. Mondays through Saturdays; 11 a.m. to 8 p.m. Sundays.

Cuisine: American

Reservations: On weekends

Smoking: In bar

Kids menu: Yes

Price: $$

Bar: Full bar

Tip: Famous for lake perch and chicken.

(Jane Dunne)

Tinfish

18201 S. Harlem Ave., Tinley Park, Ill.

(708) 532-0200

www.tf-tinfish.com

Spanking fresh crustaceans and fish prepared several ways with imaginative sides. Lively bar with great martinis and raw bar where oysters on the half shell reign, plus three spacious dining rooms decorated with a variety of colorful tin fish hanging from the rafters. Excellent salads, classic New England clam chowder. Entrées include grilled swordfish atop lightly spiced butternut squash, and blackened yellow fin tuna with brown sugar glazed Asian greens and ginger soy hollandaise. Wine list sports 40 whites and 44 reds in the $24 average category; $7 by the glass. Traditional desserts, friendly, professional service. Open for lunch 11:30 a.m. to 3 p.m. Mondays through Fridays; dinner 4:30 to 9:30 p.m. Mondays through Thursdays; until 10:30 p.m. Fridays and Saturdays; supper 4 to 8:30 p.m. Sundays.

Cuisine: Upscale casual

Reservations: Yes

Smoking: In bar

Kids menu: Yes

Price: $$$

Bar: Full bar

Tip: Half-price appetizers in the bar Mondays through Fridays.

(Jane Dunne)

T.J. Maloney's Authentic Irish Pub

Radisson Hotel, I-65 and U.S. 30, Merrillville

(219) 755-0569

www.tjmaloneys.com

"Good Irish food" an oxymoron, you say? Then you haven't been to T.J. Maloney's Authentic Irish Pub, the Radisson's newest eatery. Executive chef John Erb and restaurant chef Nate White will have you doing a jig with huge portions of seasonal Irish comfort food in a cozy setting. Lamb stew, Bass ale-battered fish and chips, shepherd's pie, mussels in red sauce, and bangers and mash elbow for menu room with more traditional salads, sandwiches, steaks, chops and seafood. Leave room for dessert -- cobbler of the day served warm with Guinness ice cream made by Valpo Velvet, Irish bread pudding, crème brûlée and Bailey's cheesecake. Let the friendly staff pull you a pint of one of the 17 stouts, ales and lagers they serve in a cavernous full-service bar with eight plasma screens (if you're into rugby, this is the place to watch it). There also are extensive martinis and Irish specialty drinks, single malts and Irish whiskies. Menu items range from $8 to $24 with desserts ringing up

at $5 to $6. The place is "leapin'" on Tuesdays with Irish step dancing (the audience is invited to join in), karaoke on Thursdays and Celtic rock on Fridays. Hours are 11 a.m. to 10 p.m. daily, bar open later, 10 a.m. Sunday brunch. Handicapped accessible. Parking. Entertainment. Major credit cards.

Cuisine: Irish upscale casual

Reservations: No

Smoking: Yes

Kids menu: Yes

Price: $$

Bar: Full bar

Tip: Selection of 17 stouts, ales and lagers; eight plasma screens.

(Barbara Rolek)

The Town Club

2904 45th Ave., Highland

(219) 924-5227

Popular, busy restaurant with a lively bar and attractive dining room resembling an English pub with beamed ceilings and friendly waitresses. Restaurant known for its superb French-fried jumbo shrimp and frog legs since its 1947 opening. Steaks are excellent. Dinners start with a bread basket and come with a choice of soup, salad or coleslaw and three potato treatments. Limited but decent wine list and good variety of beers. Seven special sandwiches at lunch with names like "Big Bertha" and "Italian Stallion," ranging from $2.95 to $7.95. Special children's menu. Hours are 11 a.m. to 10 p.m. Mondays through Saturdays. Entrées $8.95 to $34.95.

Cuisine: Upscale casual

Reservations: On weekends

Smoking: In bar

Kids menu: Yes

Price: $$

Bar: Full bar

Tip: Known for jumbo shrimp, frog legs, fish and steaks.

(Jane Dunne)

Trattoria Enzo

601 Michigan Ave., LaPorte

(219) 326-8000

A renovated old watering hole in downtown Victorian LaPorte that satisfies the family crowd with a clever kid's menu, as well as sophisticates, with its charming ambiance, reasonable prices and creative Italian cuisine. There's a lively bar to warm up in before digging into a Provimi veal scalloppine in the dining room. The best deal on the menu is a prix fixe meal for two, which means sharing one of the signature pizzas and a pasta dish with house salad and dessert for $27.95. Varied and reasonable wine list, but few by the glass. The espresso and tempting desserts are excellent. Lunch served from 11 a.m. to 2 p.m. Wednesdays. Dinner from 5 to 10 p.m. Tuesdays through Saturdays.

Cuisine: Upscale Italian

Reservations: On weekend

Smoking: No

Kids menu: Yes

Price: $$$

Bar: Full bar

Tip: The espresso and tempting desserts are excellent.

(Jane Dunne)

Tyler's Tender

350 E. U.S. 30, Schererville (in the same plaza as The Patrician Banquet Center)

(219) 322-5590 or www.tylerstender.com

It's not so much about the food at Tyler's Tender. It's more about the fun. The Schererville eatery, owned by Paul and Emily Petrie, should appeal to Thomas the Tank Engine fans of all ages. Staff wear engineer's caps, red bandannas and denim aprons. There's a $1-a-ride kid-size train, an interactive train display with three push-button stations and, if you sit at the red-stooled counter, your meal will huff and puff its way out of the kitchen on a 100-linear-foot curving track and coast to a stop right in front of you. The theme was inspired by the Petries' sons -- Preston and Zachary -- and their love of trains. The restaurant's moniker is a blend of eldest son Preston's middle name and a type of train car. "A 'tender' was a coal car that used to follow the engine," Paul Petrie says. Kiddie cuisine reigns supreme at this lively place (weekends can be hectic). The Little Engineer's Menu includes Mac & Cheese, Popcorn Shrimp, Popcorn Chicken, Hot Dog, Grilled Cheese, Mini Hamburger

and Mini Tacos and Burritos. All kids' items ($3.99 to $4.79) include potato chips or fries, a beverage and scoop of ice cream. But adults will have their appetites appeased as well. Start with wings, mushrooms, cheese sticks or other appetizers and move on to soup of the day. Ramp up with a Depot Sandwich ($3.29 to $5.99), hot panino ($5.79 to $6.79) or a $7.49 Smothered Strip Steak sandwich. If you're a fork-and-knife kind of person, look into the Chicken Tenders, Shrimp, and Fish and Chips dinners ($8.99 to $10.99). For dessert, the Chocolate Caboose and Caramel Apple Caboose are decadent blends of brownies, ice cream and gooey sauce for $2.99. Birthday parties in a special room include pizza and pop, two train rides and a gift bag for $9.95 per child. The birthday honoree also walks away with a whistle, engineer's cap and bandanna. "Some children start to cry when it's time to leave," Emily Petrie says. Hours are 10 a.m. to 8 p.m. Sundays to Thursdays, until 9 p.m. Fridays and

Saturdays.

Cuisine: American casual

Reservations: No

Smoking: No

Kids menu: Yes

Price: $$

Bar: No

Tip: The kids will love seeing their food come out on a train track.

(Barbara Rolek)

Up for Grabs

1923 Calumet Ave., Whiting

(219) 659-4508

This local bistro, just south of Five Points, has been providing locals with quality burgers, steaks, shrimp and lake perch for years. Reasonably priced wine list. Open for lunch 11 a.m. to 2 p.m. Tuesdays through Fridays. Dinner is served from 5 to 10 p.m. Tuesdays through Saturdays. Entrées range from $10.95 to $22.95.

Cuisine: Steak & seafood

Reservations: On weekend

Smoking: In bar

Kids menu: Yes

Price: $$

Bar: Full bar

Tip: Some of the best lake perch in the region.

(Jane Dunne)

Ursuline's Kitchen

20 W. 79th Ave., Merrillville

(219) 736-9390

With its dark and cozy atmosphere and mismatched linens and china, Ursuline's Kitchen easily could pass for a little boîte in Paris or New Orleans. It's an effect chef-owner Leslie Kotvasz has perfected at the restaurant that still spins a large collection of vinyls -- everything from Sarah Vaughn to Billy Idol. You may remember the restaurant when it was called Bon Femme and owned by Rich Guelinas, under whom Kotvasz tutelaged. The food was country French then, but it's decidedly Creole-Cajun now. Don't worry, everything still is made from scratch (yes, they even roast bones for stock), the wonderful, hearty bread is baked in-house daily and French onion soup ($4.95) remains on the menu. But Kotvasz is working her slow-cooking and fresh-herb magic on a lineup of dishes that include "Crusts," a version of quiche. Expect large portions of Dirty Rice, Cajun Catfish, Crab Cakes, Bouillabaisse, Po' Boys, Beef Beaujolais and more, plus daily specials. Entrées begin at $4.95 for

lunch and $8.95 for dinner, and wine and Abita, a New Orleans microbrew, and other beers are available. Look for authentic New Orleans-style chicory coffee among the list of usual beverage suspects. Desserts ($3.95 to $5.95) include an awesome bread pudding. Carryout orders, catering, private parties, small frys and vegans are accommodated with aplomb. Not up for a full meal? Soup-and-bread or dessert-and-coffee-only orders won't get you the evil eye. Stop in, shake off the worries of the workaday world, and take advantage of a fast-disappearing way of listening to music -- vinyls. Soup and salad specials on Mondays. Pig and lamb every Saturday. Thursdays is biker night with appetizer specials. Hours are 11 a.m. to 8 p.m. Mondays through Thursdays, until 9 p.m. Fridays and Saturdays.

Cuisine: Cajun/Creole

Reservations: On weekend

Smoking: No

Kids menu: Accommodated

Price: $$

Bar: Abita beer and varietal wines

Tip: Great bread, desserts and chicory coffee.

(Barbara Rolek)

Wagner's Ribs

361 Wagner Road, Porter

(219) 926-7614

An institution in Porter County packed with hungry, happy rib aficionados. Full slabs ($17.95) or half slabs ($11.95) are presented with good selection of sides like fresh hot waffle fries, onion rings by the stack, coleslaw and an enormous selection of beers. Wagner's also has a fine reputation for its grilled filet mignon, rib eye and half-pound hamburgers. Homemade soups change daily. Eli's cheesecakes for dessert. Open 10 a.m. to 11 p.m. Mondays through Saturdays and noon to 10 p.m. Sundays. Steaks $11.95 to $21.95.

Cuisine: Ribs/steaks

Reservations: No

Smoking: Yes

Kids menu: No. See Tip

Price: $$

Bar: Full bar

Tip: All patrons must be at least 21 years old.

(Jane Dunne)

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