Now and again a cookbook is published that strikes you not just for the quality of its recipes, but also for the ingenuity and utility of its concept. Sheila Lukins' recently released "10" is just such a cookbook.

In "10" Lukins, famous for her now classic "The Silver Palate Cookbook," reinvents the increasingly popular approach to cookbooks, which generally selects popular ingredients, then provides recipes for using them, rather than the more conventional clustering of recipes by course

In her new book, Lukins selects 32 popular types of foods -- cocktails, Sunday suppers, burgers, mashed potatoes, pasta among them -- then offers 10 appealing recipes for each.

The chapter on kebabs, for example, includes recipes for steak and potatoes on a stick, barbecued spiced shrimp, grilled tomato and bread salad, and grilled peach kebabs.

Here's Lukins' recipe for Lobster Mashed Potatoes, a wonderful melding of comfort and luxury. If lobster is out of your price range, use shrimp.

To save time, ask the seafood department at your grocer to steam your lobsters for you. Some will even remove the meat from the shells for you.

Lobster Mashed Potatoes

Kosher salt

2 live lobsters (each 1-1/2 pounds), or 3 pounds lobster tails

2-1/2 pounds russet potatoes, peeled and quartered

1 cup whole milk, or more if needed, warmed

6 tablespoons (3/4 stick) unsalted butter, or more if needed, at room temperature

Ground black pepper, to taste

Zest of 1 large lemon

2 tablespoons snipped fresh chives

* If your lobsters are not cooked, bring a large pot of salted water to a boil. Holding the lobsters by the tail, plunge them head first into the boiling water (this will kill them instantly) and cover the pot.

Once the water returns to a boil, cook the lobsters until they are bright red and cooked through, 8 to 10 minutes.

* Remove the lobsters from the pot and set aside for 4 to 5 minutes. Crack the lobsters and remove the meat from the tails and claws. Cut the meat into 1/2-inch pieces. Cover and set aside.

* Place the potatoes in a large saucepan and add enough cold water to cover by about 1 inch. Salt the water and bring to a boil over high heat. Reduce the heat and simmer until tender, 20 to 25 minutes.

* Drain the potatoes and return them to the pot. Shake the pan over low heat for 10 seconds to dry the potatoes.

* Transfer the potatoes to a large bowl, then add the milk and butter. Using a ricer, potato masher or fork, mash the potatoes, adding extra milk and/or butter if desired.

* Season the potatoes generously with salt and black pepper, then mix in the lemon zest. Gently fold in the lobster meat and the chives. Fluff with a fork, and serve immediately.

* To reheat the potatoes, place them in a double boiler over simmering water. A microwave will toughen the lobster.

Makes 6 to 8 servings

Source: Sheila Lukins' "Ten" (Workman Publishing, 2008)